Wine Advocate Weekend Pairings: Chilled Soup

Food lovers, rejoice: we’ve got a series here at Wine Journal happening every Friday, where we bring forth a sample menu replete with recipes from chefs around the world provided by our friends at the MICHELIN Guide, all to be paired with wines by Wine Advocate reviewers. 

The thick summer air calls for a meal that is both light and cool. Gabriel Kreuther, chef/owner of his one-Michelin-starred restaurant donning the same name prepares chilled soups during this time of year using what the season has to offer. His chilled soup of white and yellow peaches is an updated take on a recipe that his mother frequently made when he was a child. Simple and bright, it’s perfect for the warm weather.
Photo courtesy of Gabriel Kreuther.

Reviewer Erin Brooks suggests pairing this with a 2015 Alfred Merkelbach Riesling. “This could be a bit of a tough pairing, because you have some sweetness to the chilled soup, with the stone fruit, verbena and vanilla—you need a wine with a touch of sweetness but something that won't overwhelm the soup's delicate flavors,” she says. “The Merkelbach works well because it has enough sugar to partner with the soup, enhancing the sweetness of the stone fruits, while echoing its fleshy, peachy flavors. The acidity of the wine will work well to pull out some of the hidden citrus notes in the dish.”
Photo courtesy of Everest.

For a light and simple summertime main, try this recipe for sole petite grenobloise by executive chef Jean Joho of one-Michelin-starred Everest in Chicago. A personal favorite, this dish is a classic preparation where delicate sole fillets have been seared and served with capers, lemon suprêmes, parsely and croutons. 

“This is an interesting dish because the fish is firm enough to stand its own with a white Burgundy or California Chardonnay, but those wines won't quite work to compliment the herbal, citrusy aspects of the dish—capers, lemon and parsley,” adds Brooks. “I think a Bordeaux Blanc is just what's needed: the blend of herbal Sauvignon Blanc with the richer, textural Sémillon will give plenty of body to stand up to the flesh of the fish, but with a thread of herbal notes to tie it to those notes in the dish.” Brooks recommends the 2016 Doisy Daëne Blanc Sec

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