Unauthorized

This is an exquisite gem of a restaurant in, of all places, Frederick, Maryland, where my wife attended Hood College. On an old street that probably hasn’t changed much since the Civil War (with the exception of electricity and modern storefronts), this is the home of talented young Bryan Voltaggio, now very famous from his appearance on Bravo’s Top Chef. We certainly had high expectations, and we weren’t disappointed.

We asked to eat in the kitchen, where they have four or five tables, the most famous being “T-21,” which means diners receive a 21-course meal. People often wonder how someone can get through 21 courses in three hours or so, but it was actually quite easy. The food is very pure, very creative, yet not too extreme. Everything just seemed to make sense. My favorite courses – and there were quite a few – were the prosciutto chips, the tuna tartare with avocado, the chicken wing pressé with lobster noodle, the goat cheese ravioli, the slow-braised pork belly with calypso beans, the squab with brussels sprouts, the farm rabbit, and the amazing Pineland Farm striploin with ratte potato, broccoli, and dragon carrots.

Service is very professional but not the least bit condescending, and the staff is young and energetic. We were actually served three or four courses by the chef himself. I have eaten in many restaurants in the United States, and I have to say that it shocked me that this restaurant, which is only an hour from my home, probably has the most European feel to it (even though it is staffed entirely by young Americans) of any I have been to in this country. It is a rather remarkable feeling, particularly on this historic street in Frederick. It seems to be the perfect venue for this young, talented chef, who seems to have a great future ahead of him.

The wines were all from my cellar except for the Champagne, which we ordered, and they all showed brilliantly, with pure perfection in the 1982 La Mission Haut-Brion and the 1982 Mouton-Rothschild, both of which are still young, vibrant wines at nearly 30 years of age. Each has another 25-40 years of age ahead of it. The 1982 Cheval Blanc needs to be drunk up very soon as it is not likely to improve any further. The Aubert 2004 Chardonnay Lauren is my wife’s favorite Chardonnay for drinking today, and it also showed brilliantly at the restaurant.