Unauthorized

My former colleague, Pierre-Antoine Rovani, told me his best meal in Las Vegas was at Guy Savoy, run by Guy’s son, Franck. He actually thought it was better than the Parisian version that has garnered three Michelin stars. My wife and I certainly had a great meal as well, with one dazzling course after another. There is no doubt that the young apprentice, Chef Damien Dulas, is doing some amazing things. The assortment of canapes and amuse bouche offered an astonishing array of aromas, flavors, and textures. That was followed by such gorgeous dishes as the heirloom vegetables, red snapper with artichoke and fennel, the escargot and crispy pig trotters, and the amazing guinea hen cooked in a pig’s bladder (the first time I have ever had this traditional dish of central France since I ate at the great La Pyramide in Vienne in 1975). Essentially, they bring in the pig bladder from France since they can’t find them properly prepared in the United States, and cook the entire bird within the bladder, which concentrates all the flavors. The sauce is then reduced and thickened with foie gras. The result is an amazing dish.

As for the wines, the house champagne of Guy Savoy, a non-vintage Blancs de Blanc, was gorgeous. Delicate pear and lemon zest notes along with a hint of brioche made for a perfect aperitif Champagne. The 2004 Riesling Schlossberg from Domaine Weinbach displayed great flexibility with all the different aromas and flavors presented by the Chef and his staff. This is a rich, full-bodied, mineral-laced, dry Riesling with terrific acidity as well as a long finish. Despite a phenomenal wine list, it was priced like a three-star Paris restaurant, so I went to the Rhône section (which is usually where the best red wine values can be found), and was lucky enough to latch on to a 2004 Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Mon Aïeul, which was very Burgundian. This vintage, which is not a heavyweight one for Châteauneuf du Pape, produced more elegant wines that Pinot Noir lovers would find alluring. Of course, there is no oak on this wine as there is on virtually all Pinot Noirs and red Burgundies. It exhibited beautiful framboise and black cherry fruit with pepper and spice, medium to full body, good acidity, and a delicate overall personality. It went splendidly well with the guinea hen, escargots, and crispy pig trotters.

This was a sensational meal, and I can’t recommend this restaurant highly enough. Franck Savoy’s clearly displays remarkable attention to detail, and the results are pure perfection from both a culinary and service perspective.