Unauthorized

I apologize, but the proprietors of this high-end restaurant in Seoul asked me not to mention its name. However, I enjoyed another exquisite Korean meal that showed brilliant finesse, elegance, and a range of diverse spices. Most Americans have a false view of Korean cuisine because of the omnipresent Korean barbecues found everywhere. This was top-notch cooking. Before we had the two Châteauneuf du Papes, which the Koreans realize drink fabulously well with their cooking, we enjoyed the 2002 Zind Humbrecht Riesling from the Hengst Vineyard. A glorious, relatively dry Riesling, it offered up notes of apricots, peaches, and green apples. This full-bodied, bold, pure effort was a terrific accompaniment to the food. The 2005 Clos des Papes Châteauneuf du Pape appears to be slightly less successful than the 2006, and is nowhere near the immortal 2007. Exhibiting a deep ruby/purple hue, it is a tannic, backward 2005 that needs additional cellaring. The 2001 Henri Bonneau Châteauneuf du Pape Réserve des Céléstins was about as great a match-up with this food as one could have. All those people who subscribe to the myth that Korean, Japanese, or Chinese cuisine doesn’t work with great French wines need to rethink their position. The prawn and vegetables with garlic vinaigrette was a superb dish, the sea urchin porridge was out of this world, and the broiled mero (a fish indigenous to the waters of Korea) was served in a wonderful soy sauce. The char-grilled rib-eye was another great example of Korean beef, which, sadly, is not exported because production is so limited.