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Mark's Duck House, Arlington, VA Another Dim Sum Fix

Except for a disappointing white Burgundy (again!), everything that we tasted was pretty much up to snuff or even better. Pétrus, which is often somewhat underwhelming after bottling, has turned in a performance in 1998 that is easily as remarkable as the 1990 or 1989. Christian Moueix has told me several times that he thinks it is the greatest wine he has made, and even better than those two vintages. He looks to be right. The Vieux Château Certan has thrown off its post-bottling dormancy and exploded in the bottle, as did the 1998 Trotanoy, that estate's finest effort since their 1961. As I have said in other tastings, the 1989 Montrose is a steal compared to the price of the 1990, and a fabulously great wine that has another 20-25 years of life in it.

As for the Châteauneuf du Papes, the 1989 Henri Bonneau Réserve des Céléstins is young and vigorous, and actually less evolved than the 1990. The 1986 is approaching full maturity. Another great 1990 which is in that plateau of full maturity is the spectacularly rich, full-bodied, unctuous 1990 Clos de Mont Olivet Les Cuvée Papet.

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Petit Louis Bistro

From Gourmet

A lookalike, authentic French bistro, Petit Louis in Baltimore's Roland Park is the creation of restauranteurs par excellence Cindy Wolf and Tony Foreman. You feel like you’ve walked into a bistro on the Left Bank of Paris when you enter Petit Louis. The food is classic bistro, and they do it well. All of the courses we had were flavorful, sometimes a trifle rustic, but delicious in their intensity. This was good comfort food prepared extremely well. The wines started with one of the major surprises for me over the last year, the 2006 sparking wine from Tony Soter in Oregon. I had this several times while I was out visiting Oregon, and I had always been impressed, but this is a 10-year-old sparking Rosé that is just sensational, and I’m talking world class—it’s that good. Something this good from France would cost at least two to three times as much, so kudos to Tony Soter. The 1995 Billaud-Simon Chablis Mont de Milieu was oxidized and undrinkable. The 1996 Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Clos St. Urbain Rangen de Thann was sweet, and although it went well with the foie gras, it was just a little too unctuous and sweet a wine...

La Toque - Cheval Blanc Dinner

From Gourmet

This was a spectacular night of fabulous food at La Toque in Napa, California. Every course was right on target, and we had the joy of hosting Château Cheval Blanc’s administrator Pierre Lurton for this night with Wine Advocate subscribers.
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