Unauthorized

Jacques Pic, who was one of my favorite chefs in the eighties and early nineties, passed away in 1992, and his restaurant quickly fell from its Michelin three-star status to something substantially less. After Pic’s passing, his son took over, and, frankly, never seemed to escape the tragedy of his father’s death. However, since Jacques Pic’s daughter, Anne-Sophie Pic, took control of this kitchen a few years ago, it has quickly regained its Michelin three-star status, making Anne-Sophie the first woman chef in fifty years to receive three stars from Michelin, the conservative guide (the previous great dame to merit three stars was at Mère Brazier in Lyon).

When I am working in the Rhône Valley, my days are so long that I am generally too fatigued to the end of the day to enjoy a large meal. However, I had heard from so many people that Maison Pic provided a truly profound three-star eating experience, combining all the creativity and brilliance of a three-star chef with a bistro type sensitivity to intense flavors as well as extraordinary simplicity raised to a sublime level. Consequently, after my wife joined me, we made time to give it a try, and the result was pure perfection in cuisine. The savory character of each dish reminded me of the glory days of Freddy Girardet when he manned the stoves at his renowned Swiss restaurant in Crissier as well as the exceptional cuisine of Daniel Boulud, when he was at his original location on East 76th Street in New York City. Pic’s sommelier, Denis Bertrand, who I had not seen in many years, was a joy. He offered a number of complimentary glasses of wine, but the two that stood out included the exceptional 2007 St.-Péray Gamme Pic (which I think of as the Grand Cru Chablis of the south), the result of a joint project between Anne-Sophie Pic and Michel Chapoutier. This wine emphasizes the extraordinary minerality of the long-forgotten white and sparkling wine appellation of St.-Péray. This brilliant effort was pure magic with the food. Having immersed myself in tasting Châteauneuf du Pape over the previous eight days, you would have thought I had had enough, but the 2001 Janasse Chaupin is always a treat to drink. Furthermore, it is usually a great bargain, especially on this glamorous and expensive wine list. It is still young and fabulous.

As for the food, this was one of those nights when you just shook your head in amazement at the extraordinary flavors, the brilliant combinations, and the total genius of Anne-Sophie’s cuisine.  The langoustines were perhaps the most flavorful I have ever had (and believe me, I’ve eaten a lot of them). They were perfectly cooked and exploded with flavor. The bluefin tuna terrine, marbled with, of all things, bacon fat and foie gras, was a visual tour de force, and in the mouth, there was a symphony of flavors. Who would have thought how well sashimi-styled bluefin would work with foie gras? This was one of those mind-changing dishes that blew me away. An incredibly intensely flavored slice of fish, the Saint Pierre, with a wonderfully crispy skin, was another marvel in its simplicity, but with remarkably intense flavors. Just as my wife and I began thinking things couldn’t get any better, we were served what was perhaps the greatest chicken dish I have ever had. Anne-Sophie’s poularde de Bresse (an apellation controlée chicken) was out of this world. It is almost impossible to describe, so foodies will just have to check it out in person.

This restaurant has had a complete makeover since I was last there, and it now boasts many more rooms in the attached hotel. I have been somewhat worn out by the three-star scene in France, but Maison Pic reinvigorated me, and was a convincing, spectacular display of sublime cooking and impeccable service in a friendly and relaxed setting. The staff displayed professionalism as well as a charming friendliness that seemed totally genuine. That made the evening even more pleasant. This is a must visit!

P.S. I did not eat there, but Anne-Sophie also has a bistro next door that was teeming with activity. I suspect it is also a superb venue for more casual eating.