Unauthorized

Another one of my favorite Paris bistros, the tall, young chef, Randolph Paquin, runs this tiny venue with exceptional attention to the quality of the food. Moreover, for its size, it has a remarkable wine list, particularly Rhônes. This tiny restaurant in the 11th arrondisement, on a side street not far from a bustling nightclub, is an attractive two-level site with dark wood paneling, sparse walls, and a friendly, jovial staff. The specialities are usually their grouse, wild duck, wood-cooked pigeon, and game that are available in abundant quantities in the winter months. Paquin does a terrific job with terrines, but on this night, the very good terrine of foie gras was upstaged by the extraordinary ceps as well as a fabulous rendition of his take on shepherd’s pie or haschis parmentier. This one was ground lamb encased in a round pie comprised solely of sautéed egg plant slices. A fabulous combination bursting with flavor, it was the perfect foil for the 2003 Rayas Châteauneuf du Pape. While the 2003 Rayas does not measure up to the 2005 (the finest vintage Emmanuel Reynaud has made since his uncle passed away in 1997), it is a strong effort for this irregular vintage. We also enjoyed a tasty St.-Joseph white that was mostly Roussanne from a producer I rarely see in the United States, Dard et Ribo.

To reiterate, the staff was extremely friendly, and the prices were very fair, even with the sad debacle of the American dollar. I highly recommend this Paris bistro.