Unauthorized

This modern, tiny restaurant is just outside of Vaison-La-Romaine and adjacent to the hillside Côtes du Rhône village of Roaix. Since I had had a good-sized lunch, I ate very lightly, choosing only two very refined dishes, both of which were stunning. The risotto with tiny snails, mushrooms (girolles), and langoustines were superbly prepared. Although intensely flavored, it was light on its feet. That was followed by another impeccably rendered dish, a roasted slice of fish called St. Pierre, which in England is called John Dory. We had a couple of glasses of champagne to cleanse our palates, and then drank the 2003 Charvin Châteauneuf du Pape. The first bottle revealed a subdued character, but the second, for whatever reason, was significantly better. This excellent venue with refined and sophisticated cooking is well worth a visit. The wine list is strong in Côtes du Rhône selections, less so in Châteauneuf du Papes. They also had a good selection of northern Rhône wines. It is a lovely place with impeccable food.