La Régalade, Paris, France

Currently, this is Paris's most popular bistro. In order to get a table at this tightly packed, noisy restaurant, reservations must be made weeks in advance. I can not say enough about the generosity and cooking skills of the young chef, Yves Camdeborde. All the customers receive a fabulous selection of sausages and a fabulous paté compliments of the kitchen. Try not to fill up on this, as Camdeborde fashions a wonderful shepard's pie (hachis parmentier), small fried whole fish, and extraordinary deep fried zucchini flowers. These knock out dishes were washed down with bottles of the sumptuously fruity, rich Jean Thevenet 1999 Mâcon Clessé, and the peppery, kirsch liqueur-scented and flavored 1998 Fonsalette Côtes du Rhône. For anyone going to Paris, this is a must stop! The wine list could use improvement, but on each visit I see new entries on what is a relatively limited list. It's good to see the restaurant picking some of the better producers in the Maconnais and Côtes du Rhône.

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