Unauthorized

This was another fabulous evening at L'Ami Louis with pretty much the same menu, although at this meal we substituted the hot confit for their cold confit of duck served as an appetizer. I may like this even better than the warmer version, which is pretty spectacular. Of course, the Burgundy snails were as great as ever. At this dinner, I thought the chicken was even more flavorful than on the first night ... if such a thing is possible. A friend who was dining with us ordered the grilled veal chop, which was delicious.

Once again, the wines were outrageously good. I had purchased the two magnums at the domaines during my visit to Châteauneuf du Pape two weeks earlier. The 2003 Marcoux Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Vieilles Vignes, while still an infant, is one of the monumental wines of this vintage. While it still requires a lot of time, I had no problem gulping it down given its exquisite black raspberry, licorice, spicy, peppery, incense, and flower-like characteristics. Unbelievably voluptuous and intense, it needs another 3-4 years of bottle age, and should drink well for 15 or more years. Perhaps the greatest Cuvée Réservée ever made is Pégaü's 2003. If they had wanted to, I think they could have declared this entire vintage as a Cuvée da Capo. The 2003 Cuvée Réservée is powerful, rich, voluptuous, and represents a more modern day version of their 1990, but with even more power, glycerin, richness, and concentration. It's an amazing wine and it is thrilling to drink now, although it will be even better in 5-7 years, and probably mind-boggling in a decade or so. Sometimes infanticide is good for the heart and soul, especially at a restaurant like L'Ami Louis, which is pure soulful food prepared with exquisite perfection. Living well is the best revenge!