Chinatown Brasserie

I was very impressed with the dim sum at this restaurant. It was creative, very flavorful, and to me, as impressive in its flavors and character as the dim sum at Mark’s Duck House, my reference point for dim sum on this side of the Pacific. With the meal we had a delicious, spicy, peppery, full-bodied, unctuously textured 2002 Martinelli Zinfandel Jackass. The Zinfandel worked perfectly well with the assortment of seafood, as well as some of the speciality dishes such as crabmeat and spinach dumplings, mango rolls with shrimp, and pork potstickers. The truly profound wine was the 1998 Marcassin Pinot Noir. Tasting like a grand cru Clos La Roche, with notes of fresh porcini mushrooms intermixed with blueberry, plum, fig, and incense, this wine, from a very challenging vintage, is full-bodied, still young, fresh, and superbly complex.


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