Charleston

Another excellent meal from Chef Cindy Wolf, who sent out some complimentary hors d’oeuvres that included wonderfully sweet, fleshy mussels encased in smoky bacon as well as one of her signature dishes, cornmeal-encrusted deep fried oysters. That was followed by a superb soft shelled crab dish, the first I have had this season. We also enjoyed a fresh, lively salmon tartare, Chef Wolf’s exquisite turbo with scalloped potatoes, and a flavorful, extremely tender, savory filet of bison, which, of course, is much leaner than American beef. I still have a preference for aged beef, but I suspect if you are obsessed about health, bison is a better choice. The wines, all from magnum, were superb. The 2008 Aubert Chardonnay Reuling is one of my all-time favorite Chardonnays ... from California or elsewhere in the world. Lots of buttered citrus, honeysuckle, white peach and tangerine notes intertwined with a hint of wet rocks give this wine a wonderfully fleshy, full-bodied mouthfeel with terrific fruit as well as balance. Despite some lofty alcohol (which is not the least bit detectable), it is elegant and fresh. We then moved to a wine I double-decanted about five hours prior to dinner, a magnum of the 1996 Latour. Although it is a top vintage in the northern Médoc that produced classic wines, 1996 must take a back seat to what Latour achieved in 2003, 2009 and 2010, perhaps 2000 as well. The brilliant 1996 Latour is just beginning to come into pre-adolescence. The color is a healthy dark ruby/purple and the bouquet reveals classic aromas of walnuts, cassis, cedar and spice box. Still youthful and full-bodied with good acidity as well as ripe, sweet tannins, it is a complete, well-balanced wine. We finished with the only magnum I have had of the 1962 Vega Sicilia. A dark plum/garnet color reveals some lightening at the edge. The extraordinary, majestic nose exhibits scents of sweet, briery berries, forest floor, unsmoked cigar tobacco and licorice. Full-bodied, opulent, stunningly fresh and lively, this may be the youngest 1962 red wine left in the world. It appears to be close to full maturity, but it should easily last another 30+ years. It’s a shame Vega Sicilia has become so expensive as it is truly a great wine, possibly the finest made in Spain.

Another excellent meal from Chef Cindy Wolf, who sent out some complimentary hors d’oeuvres that included wonderfully sweet, fleshy mussels encased in smoky bacon as well as one of her signature dishes, cornmeal-encrusted deep fried oysters. That was followed by a superb soft shelled crab dish, the first I have had this season. We also enjoyed a fresh, lively salmon tartare, Chef Wolf’s exquisite turbo with scalloped potatoes, and a flavorful, extremely tender, savory filet of bison, which, of course, is much leaner than American beef. I still have a preference for aged beef, but I suspect if you are obsessed about health, bison is a better choice.


The wines, all from magnum, were superb. The 2008 Aubert Chardonnay Reuling is one of my all-time favorite Chardonnays ... from California or elsewhere in the world. Lots of buttered citrus, honeysuckle, white peach and tangerine notes intertwined with a hint of wet rocks give this wine a wonderfully fleshy, full-bodied mouthfeel with terrific fruit as well as balance. Despite some lofty alcohol (which is not the least bit detectable), it is elegant and fresh. We then moved to a wine I double-decanted about five hours prior to dinner, a magnum of the 1996 Latour. Although it is a top vintage in the northern Médoc that produced classic wines, 1996 must take a back seat to what Latour achieved in 2003, 2009 and 2010, perhaps 2000 as well. The brilliant 1996 Latour is just beginning to come into pre-adolescence. The color is a healthy dark ruby/purple and the bouquet reveals classic aromas of walnuts, cassis, cedar and spice box. Still youthful and full-bodied with good acidity as well as ripe, sweet tannins, it is a complete, well-balanced wine. We finished with the only magnum I have had of the 1962 Vega Sicilia. A dark plum/garnet color reveals some lightening at the edge. The extraordinary, majestic nose exhibits scents of sweet, briery berries, forest floor, unsmoked cigar tobacco and licorice. Full-bodied, opulent, stunningly fresh and lively, this may be the youngest 1962 red wine left in the world. It appears to be close to full maturity, but it should easily last another 30+ years. It’s a shame Vega Sicilia has become so expensive as it is truly a great wine, possibly the finest made in Spain.



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